Test your CYA and see what it is at. If it is near 100 ppm try switching to liquid chlorine only for the season. You my need to add 4-5 gallon each week so the cost will be similar or higher than the tablets but the results will be that you are not adding CYA to the pool. Once the level drops to 30-50 ppm the liquid chlorine will be more effective and you will need to add less moving forward. It wouldn't be unusual for a 30K pool to require 1/2 to 1 gallon per day. If you had a Salt Water System it would be producing and adding about 1/2 gallon each day to keep the pool at 3-5 ppm.

The grids have a lifespan of 3-5 years. If the pressure is rising on you as you indicated replacing all 8 grids normally will solve this issue. Try that and see if it corrects it.

Sure thing!

Since the parts are interchangeable with the Polaris cleaners I suggest adding this to the tail: https://www.amazon.com/ATIE-PoolSupplyTown-Diffuser-Scrubber-TailSweep/dp/B07MVSY7XN/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=swimmingpooll-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=44a63c95465eeb21441def54976e14c9&creativeASIN=B07MVSY7XN I would change the bearing and see if that does the trick.

That is going to be a problem especially if you have anti-vortex main drains. It's an investment but the real solution is just to replace that cleaner with something like the PoolCleaner by Hayward.

Yes. What type of cleaner is it?

@jfmail007 If anything you may need to change the 8 grids. Let me know ho it goes.

If it is not a Sand filter try doing a complete cleaning of the filter to see if the increases the flow would be the first step. To see if there is a blockage on the return side the filter PSI is a good indicator. If there is a blockage when you turn on the pump for the first time the filter PSI will spike and then drop down. A blockage will also effect the pool suction so you would have a loss of suction also.

Just want to start with the obvious. Check the pump lid O-ring and also the filter air relief may be bad. If it is a Hayward DE filter with this Air Relief Assembly that could be the issue. They have a high failure rate. Air could be getting in from these 2 locations.

If you feel like all of the water did not exit the water feature line you may need to blow it. Remove both plugs. From what you are describing it sounds like a small set up so the water should drain out. If you are not going to run the booster pump you can winterize that one as well and just run your spa with the main pump all Winter.

Running the spa pump at the coldest part of the night should protect the equipment. You will want to Winterize the water feature pump by draining all of the water out of the line and pump and then leaving it off. There is a plug on the side of the pump that allows you to drain it completely out.

Where is the leak located?

Yes, there wouldn't be a Multi-port valve on a Cartridge filter. If you wanted to run your filter in some type of recirculate mode you would have to open the filter and simply remove the cartridge. Then run the pool without the cartridge installed. There is no way to really bypass a Cartridge filter.

Here is the order I suggest. Liquid Chlorine, Cal Hypo, Dichlor and Trichlor shock. I just did a Podcast on the pros and cons of each. You may want to tune in to that one: https://www.buzzsprout.com/admin/episodes/810432-episode-63-what-type-of-chlorine-is-best-for-my-pool

Wix.com is great. I just started using the Godaddy web builder also. Works pretty well.

Yes. It allows for skimmer suction. Not a lot but some.

You won't need the skimmer adpater. You can sell it or keep it as an extra for futurer use in another pool

I know. It is a totally underrated cleaner. For $140 you can't go wrong. Just the skimmer adapter - Flowkeeper valve is $60 on line. If you don't need it for that pool (side port connection) I suggest selling it on eBay for $50. 😀